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Welcome to Herbology 501

My name is Matthew Aspen, or Professor Aspen for short, and I am glad to give you all a very warm welcome to this course. My PAs and myself expect great things from you, so we are eager to see you all "grow" in the greenhouses. However, we would like you to read the following information about the course before enrolling in it:

1-Whenever you submit an assignment, it goes to our queue. We usually grade them quickly, but sometimes this is not possible due to many factors. That is why we would like you to be patient and rest assure that your assignments will be graded shortly.

2-The Herbology Team is more than happy to receive your questions about the course. Please do so in a formal and respectful manner, and your queries will be answered quickly.

3-Even though we are professionals and enjoy what we do, we are also prone to make mistakes. If you believe that an assignment has not been fairly graded, please send Professor Aspen an owl as soon as possible, outlining your reasons why you believe so, together with the ID number of your assignment. Remember that appeals are evaluated and they can have positive or negative replies, meaning that your grade might change for good or for bad. Bear this in mind when you contact me about such topic.

4-All assignments can be retaken if you get less than 70% in them.

5-All assignments for HERB 501 now have a short sentence in colour to indicate if the assignment can be resubmitted or not.

6-This is the O.W.L. year for Herbology. After this, you will be able to take the test. Don't forget to start studying for it as it will have theoretical and practical contents from Y1 to Y5.

 

Lesson 5) Toothy Trees

Year Five, Lesson Five
Preview of Dangerous and Difficult Plants

Introduction

Welcome students, once again, to a lesson filled with hungry plants. I hope our topic of discussion last week didn’t make you too faint, as this week’s plants are bigger and bolder! Never fear, though. You’re in good hands in this greenhouse with your classmates and myself. You may also notice that I have some professor’s assistants here with me as well. They’ll be my eyes and ears during the lesson when I’m a little distracted with teaching. If, at any time, they indicate you should move away from a certain area, please make sure you follow their directions post haste! I do hate unnecessary losses of limb, and this darned lesson always tries my patience on that front. 

But enough of that, on to the good stuff!

Why So Carnivorous?

As we embark on our third lesson regarding physically aggressive and carnivorous plants, you may be wondering why there is so much of this flora as well as such abundant variety. Why would plants, which normally photosynthesize, require any protein to stay alive or need to act aggressively towards humans?

Among mundane plants, the answer is simply evolution. This has happened independently in various genuses of flora. What this means is that, somehow, carnivorism provided these plants an evolutionary boost. This may have meant that they didn’t have to compete as much for nutrition from the soil, or it could have meant that they didn’t need as much sun to perform photosynthesis -- something quite handy for plants that grow on the bottom levels of dense forests.

However, the topic of magical plants is a bit more varied. In some cases, similar to mundane plants, this has simply happened over a long period of time through evolutionary adaptation. In other cases, though, these traits were created. There are many reasons that witches and wizards have engineered carnivorous or aggressive plants. Some, sadly, have attempted to weaponize plants, whether for defense or offense. No, dear Merlin, it’s not as though we don’t have enough weapons in this world already! Some were designed for assassination, clever border or ward defense, or as “warriors” in an army that they didn’t need to worry about replacing. After all, plants don’t cry when you chop off their limbs1, and seedlings can’t become orphans. All-in-all, it’s one way to minimize the loss of human lives (or other beings) in war time.

Other carnivorous or aggressive plants have been created with magic simply by accident. For example, Boxingwood was not originally intended to be aggressive, but this was a byproduct of crosspollination with a Whomping Willow. Often, the introduction of magical DNA causes unpredictable results, even with plants that are less obviously dangerous than a Whomping Willow. A taste for flesh or semi-sentience is a common enough side effect of magical hybrid plants that are manufactured, though usually people do not see this as a problem. 

Lastly, as discussed in Year Three, Lesson Nine and Year Four, Lesson Three, if a plant is subjected to repeated exposure to potions, spells, or highly magical artifacts, it can develop magical dependence which can eventually end in aggression or strange appetites among other side effects. That said, a plant that is exposed to magic will not automatically become aggressive or a meat-eater. Take, for example, the Fuelshia, which instead developed a very peculiar taste for petrol. Or, perhaps you’ve heard of the Cuddletail, which grew from a magically overloaded cattail and developed a desire to be pet every half hour.

Carnivorous Categories

Before we get into specific examples, there are a few broader categories to discuss. Now, not all carnivorous plants necessarily fall into either of these categories; they can exist outside of them. However, these are useful genres to know about when studying this topic.

Self-Fertilizing Shrubs

The first of these categories are self-fertilizing shrubs. Be advised that this name is a bit inaccurate, as many different kinds of plants (herbs, trees, flowers, and vines alike) can fall into this category, even if they don’t fit the strict definition of “shrub.” 

Whatever type of vegetation they are, these plants do have one main thing in common: self-fertilizing shrubs, though they use nutrients from decaying flesh as sustenance, don’t technically consume beasts or beings (or even insects) with teeth, nor do they even have mouths. These are herbs that simply use flesh as fertilizer. They are the largest group of carnivorous plants, and many of the carnivorous flora we’ve covered thus far fall into this category, but they don’t actually bite or swallow to do so. Common examples of this are Devil’s Snare, Carniferns, and even Bloodblooms. They may use sticky substances to digest their prey, strangle it and absorb its nutrients through the roots, or a number of other methods. For clarification, many non-magical plants like Venus flytraps and pitcher plants also count as self-fertilizing shrubs, as although their leaves and appendages look like mouths, they aren’t really. However, some herbologists think it might be time to redefine this category to make it less broad and, therefore, less confusing.

Carnivorous Forests

This next broad group of carnivorous plants is a strange phenomena: “carniforus trees.” These hungry plants can come together to create a forest entirely composed of carnivorous plants. Situations like these are rare, but have been documented to happen quite a few times in history and still occur to this day. There are a few factors that contribute to these kinds of forests developing. First of all, carnivorous trees are often quite pushy and can end up crowding out regular plants that require sunlight and proper soil nutrients to survive. Secondly, particularly if the neighboring species are magical, plants near a carnivorous plant (even if normal and photosynthesizing) can become dependent on the extra source of nutrients if blood and/or remains are repeatedly applied over generations. Don’t worry about pricking your finger around your petunias, though! This would be something that happens over a long period of time.  Thirdly, there is the matter of reproduction. If a carnivorous plant frequently sends out pollen in a small population of plants, it may end up crossbreeding with normal plants for many years and therefore propagate more meat-eating greenery. There are also some that say carnivorous forests have been planted or grown for protection or study by magical persons of the past, but there is no current documentation to support this theory. 

Particular Predatory Plants

Now, finally onto some specific species of carnivorous plants. We are looking at fewer plants today than we did last time, however, be warned that each one of these plants is more dangerous than even the Man-eating Marigold. They don’t all necessarily have to eat people; they all do fine with their current diet of beasts. However, they certainly wouldn’t say no to a fresh snack of Fifth Years and are more than capable of taking down prey your size or larger. Keep your wands out and your eyes open, students! The plants housed in this corner of Greenhouse Seven are very susceptible to your normal barrage of defensive spells like the Immobilization Charm, the Stunning Spell (which I am told you have just learned in your Defense Against the Dark Arts classes), and even, to some extent, the Impediment Jinx, all of which you already know. I would, of course, prefer you not to cast enchantments willy-nilly around my greenhouse, but should you get in a tight spot, you now know your options!

Boar Beech

To start, we have the Boar Beech, which gets its name from its preferred form of sustenance. It grows native to Africa, though can be cultivated wherever the climate is warm enough and it receives enough fresh meat. Despite the name, these are not actual beech trees. Rather, they are actually a species of willow, which grow anywhere from 30 to 65 feet tall (roughly 10 to 20 metres). However, they received their name from the look of their bark, which is very similar to your typical beech. Its branches are adorned with long, narrow green leaves and produce light green to white flowers in the early fall, usually around September.

Faurea fauna requires warm weather (it is not frost resistant at all), and does best in at least a small amount of sunlight (partial shade). However, the sunlight is not absolutely crucial, and in the wild they can be found in full shade. They do best with moderate amounts of water and a slightly alkaline pH (7.5 to 8.0), but again, this too has some wiggle room. The main factor in ensuring a Boar Beech’s growth (other than warmth) is heaping helpings of meat. Ideally, the tree should be supplied with roughly 100 to 200 pounds of meat every other week, laid at the base of its trunk for it to eat at its leisure. Much less than that and you will see the upper boughs begin to droop. On the other side of the Sickle, there is nothing to be gained from over-feeding it either, as the excess will simply not be absorbed and will instead be left at the base of the tree to rot. 

Now, in the wild, this plant uses a combination of copycat pheromones and mating grunts produced by rubbing its branches together to attract a wild boar. Once a boar has gotten close enough, the tree will split vertically along its trunk and quickly gobble the poor, unsuspecting porcine. It will do the same with any other animal that accidentally wanders close enough to it, including humans, though it does not have any method of attracting us that we know of. While slightly contested, this tree currently falls into the Class B: Physically Aggressive category of W.H.I.P.S. plants.

This plant is good for more than just attracting and attacking sides of pork! Its various parts have quite a few notable potion uses as well. Firstly, its bark is utilized in potions that cause spontaneous combustion. Separately, its leaves are very useful for their weather-affecting properties and are used in many potions in order to influence weather patterns (or make certain items weather-proof). To harvest bits of this plant (as well as to feed it in captivity), it is best to do so at a distance, as there is no need for extreme precision. A Severing Charm safely conducted from five feet away will easily net you a bough or limb that can be stripped of its bark or leaves. Some prefer to stun the plant first, however I find this begins to take a toll on the tree and is not necessary so long as you keep your distance; this plant does not display any aggression or feeding actions until its prey is less than one foot away. Similarly, to feed it, you can simply levitate the meat over close enough to touch the trunk of the tree.

Snargaluff

A slightly smaller carnivorous tree is the Snargaluff. It strongly resembles a long-dead tree stump -- making you wonder why it is considered a Class B: Physically Aggressive plant -- right up until you get too close.  Once the Snargaluff senses your presence, usually by brushing up against it, it springs into action. The previously innocuous stump suddenly unleashes a host of thorny green to purple vines that all appear to have minds of their own. If not avoided, these vines can tear into your skin and do some pretty nasty damage. However, this is not the biggest threat this plant poses! Should you be unable to fend off the vines properly, they will eventually drag you back towards the center opening of the stump, which will begin to stretch wide enough to accommodate its new meal. At this juncture, one of the pods in the center of the stump (Snargaluffs typically have anywhere from two to four pods in them at a given time) will burst, revealing wriggling green tubers. The juice these tubers ooze out is actually a form of digestive enzyme that helps break down the Snargaluff’s prey for digestion. Ah, some of you are looking rather pale, I see... My apologies. I assure you there are many ways to defend against this plant as well as harvest the pods I mentioned. 

Firstly, as originally noted, this plant is susceptible to your average dueling spells: the Immobilization Charm, the Impediment Jinx, the Stunning Spell, and more. Their vines are also no match for a well-placed Severing Charm (though I would prefer you not hack away at my plants unless as a last resort)! Other, less traditional methods, such as ducking to avoid the spiky feelers, work as well. To ultimately “finish off” a Snargaluff, there are a number of options. First, you can simply flee far enough away that you are out of its range. However, alternatively, you can harvest one of the pods in the stump, simply by grabbing it out while its vines are occupied. This causes the plant to assume that its prey has been successfully captured, and it immediately withdraws. The pod is completely harmless unless punctured, and even if some of the tubers come out, you should be wearing dragonhide gloves. If at any point the juice, or tubers, make contact with bare skin, seek out medical attention immediately. 

Now, I suppose at this point we should cover the typical points for growing Snarlus grufea. This lively North American plant has no specific sunlight requirements and requires very little water, but it is rather picky about its soil pH. It requires an almost exactly neutral pH, with only a few tenths of wiggle room. The ideal range is generally accepted as 6.8 to 7.2, but the closer you can get to a perfect 7.0, the better. It also has a much smaller appetite than the two trees we have covered so far, only requiring a paltry 50 pounds of meat every two or three weeks. In the wild, it is usually satisfied by snagging small snacks -- possums, rodents, or birds -- on a regular basis. However, there is no upper limit to the creatures it will consume if presented with the opportunity2. In these situations, the plant will, more or less, go into hibernation for months at a time as it no longer needs additional nutrition. 

In terms of uses, the grapefruit-sized pod is certainly worth the trouble of extraction. While raw, the tubers and the juices inside will start to break down flesh, and when diluted and/or used in potions, they exhibit many other potent and powerful uses. Firstly, it can be used to store organs that have been donated for use as transplants and keep them fresh for up to a year, thus avoiding waste. Additionally, Snargaluff tubers are a principal ingredient in Gorgon’s Germ-Repelling Remedy and the Skin Graft Solution. Finally, there are also some preliminary studies that indicate the thorns -- if separated from the vines -- can be used in the Iron Scale Elixir, which is used to treat dragons whose hide (and scales) have begun to soften, either due to extreme age or illness.

Strangling Figs

Not to be confused with the broader, non-magical category known as strangler figs, Strangling Figs are magical, physically aggressive, and carnivorous plants that grow in all sorts of climates around the world. There are a few different species, such as Caedis tinctoria, Caedis craterostoma, Caedis aurea, and Caedis benghalensis. However, today we will look at one specific species -- Caedis walkinsiana -- to serve as a general example for the genus. 

Native to Australia, this particular species of Strangling Fig is known by many common names, including the Strolling Strangler and the Waltzing Vine. Being figs, you know that these plants are parasitic and don’t need soil to grow. In fact, they prefer to grow out of the crooks of older, established trees before beginning to grow around them. Therefore, providing their soil and water requirements is a bit useless. They do prefer at least a little sun, but can technically do with less than partial shade if necessary. Noting their height is a little unconventional as well, though they can reach heights of 160 feet (or 50 metres). They bear similar green leaves to other strangler figs (and to most Strangling Figs) and produce fruits that turn black when ripe. A perfectly ripe Caedis walkinsiana will also have subtle, cream-colored spots on it, though there is only a very brief window of opportunity before they spoil (remember to use the Maturation Charm to check). 

The Australian Strangling Fig actually belongs in the self-fertilizing shrub sub-group of carnivorous plants. Much like it strangles its host tree (though this happens much more gradually), it is actually able to move quite a bit, with the most active specimens known to travel a foot or more in just a few seconds. The tendrils actively seek animal prey to strangle to death before gently laying them at the base of the host tree that they are currently taking over. As the body decomposes, this physically aggressive plant absorbs the nutrients via the host tree’s root system. In one week, a Strangling Fig will usually consume roughly 100 lbs of meat, which is facilitated by its wide reach.

It is possible to remove the fig fruits without the plant noticing, but typically herbologists and harvesters prefer to stun or otherwise immobilize the plant, as it is quite clever and will often feign inactivity to lure its prey close enough, using its delicious figs as bait. Once harvested, the fruits have a number of uses. The flowers inside them are used in Vampartle’s Bug Repellent, which wards off any and all blood-sucking insects and a number of beasts, including the Blood-Sucking Bugbear. The juices in the fruit can also be used in various bioluminescent brews and enjoy particular popularity in a specific one, known as “Claus Cordial,'' which can be applied directly to pine trees in order to light them without the need for fairies, candles, or other forms of light. Finally, the raw fruit is often used in pies, muffins, and even as flavoring in some wizarding beverages. 

Trench Teak

Finally, there is the Trench Teak, alternatively known as the Tunneling Teak or Teak-of-Teeth. This tropical plant is native to the Southern areas of Asia, mainly those with tropical rainforests, though it can also be grown in captivity. Its grey bark is highly rough and even serrated in some places. Its limbs bear oval, dark green leaves that give way to white flowers in the summer months of June, July, and August. In total, these trees can reach whopping heights of 130 feet (40 metres). They require frequent watering, partial sun, and a pH of 5.5 to 7.0, and produce small, fragrant white flowers.

Tectona grabis tunnels with its roots to trap prey in a large trench that suddenly opens up underneath the unsuspecting victim before being lifted up to the toothy, mouth-like knots in the sides of the tree to be digested. Once inside, prey is subjected to a secretion that numbs and prohibits movement, much like spider venom, essentially immobilizing it. As you can tell, this plant is obviously placed in the Class B: Physically Aggressive category. Typically, they prefer large cats and other mammals, but will also trap smaller prey if hunting is scarce and will never say no to a happy accident when humans wander into their midst. As Trench Teaks can have very extensive root systems, it is important to keep a detailed record of where you plant one as well as check on its root progress from time to time (not to mention to keep it well fed, so it doesn’t seek out unwanted supplemental snacks)! To keep up with its appetite, herbologists will need to ensure it receives at least 250 pounds of meat per week. Much less than this and you run the risk of it starting to purposefully extend its root system and seek out prey, which naturally is a problem in a greenhouse. 

While we’re on the subject, there is a way to check a plant’s root system without having to dig it up, which is not just pertinent to caring for this plant, but nearly all of them! It’s a fantastic way to check for root rot, to see if the root ball is stuck on something, or even just to see if it’s about time to repot. In non-herbological terms, it’s also used to survey the ground for archaeological finds. Unfortunately, it is a bit beyond you as Fifth Years, but rest assured I perform it regularly. In any case, if you have been practicing your Dampening Charm, that should help some at the very least!  

As far as uses go, the flowers of this plant are very handy for weight loss potions, including the new and quite popular Slimming Solution, which has far fewer side effects than its predecessors. Less popularly, it is used as a substitute for other ingredients that relieve headaches. However, because of the difficulties associated with keeping this tree happy (and keeping yourself safe), this more run-of-the-mill use is not as common. There is also a small, but growing, contingent of witches and wizards that prefer to use this wood for wand-making, though I’m sure I need not mention that it has some troubling tendencies towards the Dark Arts when used.

Closing

Now, head towards the exit, students! Are we all here? Does everyone have all the parts they came in with? Excellent! If later you find you’re missing a toe, please be sure to visit the Hospital Wing, but it appears we’ve escaped unscathed. Next week, we’ll finally be moving on from Greenhouse Seven and instead visiting Greenhouse Six. Don’t let the numbers fool you though, Greenhouse Six is no less dangerous than this one. However, you can rest easy knowing that none of the plants there think you look delicious. In other good news, you will not be having any individual practical assignments surrounding these plants today. Instead, you’ll be sitting your midterms for the year and, should you so desire, you may also take a crack at a practice O.W.L. in order to get a feel for what the end of the year assessments have in store!

Footnotes

[1] Except, of course, for the Bermuda Blubbering Bush and Cry-santhemums. But these aren’t typically utilized as fighting flora.

[2] Documents note that one particular specimen, which was brought along as a side show for the Circus Arcanus, was found attempting to digest an entire dragon. The tail was sticking out, but, other than that, it was doing a rather admirable job.

Original lesson written by Professor Venita Wessex

Image credits here, here, here, here, here and here

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If you can't take the heat, get out of the Greenhouses! In the final year of Herbology for many students, this course will cover the various classes of W.H.I.P.S. plants in significant detail, as well as how to grow many of them.
Course Prerequisites:
  • HERB-401

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