HERB-501 Lessons

Year Five, Lesson Four
Preview of Dangerous and Difficult Plants

Introduction

Hello, hello, Fifth Years! Once again we find ourselves in front of Greenhouse Seven to see what it has in store for us. Today we will begin our study of carnivorous plants. There are actually quite a large number of plants that fit this bill, so this topic will be split into two parts. First, we will focus on smaller plants, like flowers and ferns. However, next week we will graduate up to larger specimens. Now, don’t look disappointed! Just because these plants are small does not mean they are boring -- or, for that matter, anything to be trifled with! Come inside and I will show you what I mean.

Dietary Definitions

Ah yes, there’s nothing like the earthy scent of plants and the sporadic “snap” of jaws and “crack” of stems to make you feel at home. While we’re surrounded by our plants of study, I want to take a brief moment to touch on exactly what carnivorous plants are and are not. First, to clear up a misconception that many a wizard has, carnivorous plants are plants that eat anything protein-based, not just people. Therefore, a common, non-magical Venus flytrap is carnivorous (though not a W.H.I.P.S. Class B: Physically Aggressive plant). Most plants receive their nutrients from the soil and sunlight via photosynthesis, but others, like the ones we will discuss today, may eat insects, small mammals, or amphibians. Many are “scavengers,” or plants that will absorb the protein without actually pouncing on their prey themselves. Most importantly, the majority of these plants do not actually have a human diet, though they will nip at you and, depending on their size, can take a bite out of you. Trees are much more often the concern for humans, as they frequently grow large enough to take a good sized bite or even completely digest you, hence why those will not be covered until next week!

Also, not all plants that bite are considered carnivorous. The Fanged Geranium, for example, will most certainly bite you, as was discussed in the last lesson. However, because it does not actually consume the flesh of any animal or use it for energy, it is not carnivorous. Essentially, the plant needs to receive some nutrients from animals to be considered truly carnivorous. Chinese Chomping Cabbage was long considered to be in the same “pseudo-carnivorous” category as Fanged Geraniums until just recently, when a large enough specimen was found gnawing on the bone of a partially-digested Knarl.

Along those lines, the last thing to clarify is how these plants fit into the larger schema of the W.H.I.P.S. classes. As you can see, carnivorous plants are housed along with the Class B: Physically Aggressive plants, as they pose many similar dangers. But, just like with the Fanged Geranium, not all physically aggressive plants are carnivorous, and not all carnivorous plants are physically aggressive. Let me provide you with some examples to help that sink in. For the first, while Boxingwoods are definitely rather aggressive and will give you a nasty pop in the nose, they have never consumed or digested human or animal flesh. Neither have Whomping Willows nor Bouncing Bulbs. On the other side of the Sickle, there are plenty of magical and non-magical plants, like pitcher plants and Carniferns, that consume meat, but do not do anything physical to try to attack their food source.

A Cohort of Carnivorous Herbs

With that out of the way, let’s get to the meat of the lesson! As I mentioned, the plants today pose less of a threat than fifty foot trees, but are still nothing to be trifled with. In an attempt to show you just a sample of the wide spectrum of carnivorous plants, we will be touching on quite a few different types with varying levels of aggression and non-aggression.

Australian Pitcher Plant

We’ll start with a teeny tiny carnivorous plant -- it tops off at eight inches -- that is not magical. Cephalotus follicularis is a specific species of pitcher plant native to Australia which grows in rather acidic soil, usually with a pH between 3.0 and 5.0. Pitcher plants in general prefer a full six hours of sun, and this Australian species is no exception. Finally, as far as water goes, things can get a little tricky. These plants need to be well-watered and healthy, as well-established pitcher plants will keep a constant reservoir of water in their little “pitcher.” However, leaving this plant in large amounts of standing water -- a common practice for many pitcher plants -- usually leads to sudden and inevitable death via root rot. It takes a bit of trial and error to find out exactly how much water is just right, though remember you can always add more; it is more challenging to remove it. There are no flowers on this herb, though the intricate leaves that form the pitchers make up for it. As you can see, parts of the leaves range from vibrant green to red and even a deep purple.

As a note, during the beginning of the growing phase, you may need to crank up the humidity in your greenhouse or wherever you have your plant. The Humidity Spell should do quite nicely, though it won’t be necessary once the plant is full-grown.

Now, I did say these plants were carnivorous, so you may be wondering if you need to offer up tasty dead flies or Flobberworms to your pitcher plants. You’ll likely be relieved to know this is not at all necessary. Typically, pitcher plants and other carnivorous herbs are able to attract enough sustenance on their own without you supplementing their meaty diet. In fact, since these plants have developed over time, they are perfectly capable of living without meat if need be, and instead relying on good, old-fashioned photosynthesis. However, if you were to put two plants up side by side, one that received extra nutrients via protein and one that didn’t, the former would be much more vibrant and robust. It also increases their effectiveness in potions. Speaking of which, the pitcher plant is most prized for its use in depilatory potions and fertilizing potions.  

To wrap up our portion of the lesson on pitcher plants, we should talk about dangers, as we will for each of the other plants today. For humans, there aren’t any. The pitcher plant attracts its prey -- small insects and invertebrates -- by producing nectar. Then, when the prey perches on the lip of the pitcher, it falls in due to slippery wet areas. From there, they will usually fall into a pool of liquids -- water, nectar, etc. -- and drown before being slowly digested. A grim fate, to be sure. Fortunately, none of us are small enough to fall into a one inch opening and drown!

Bloodbloom

Geobrelum cruor, otherwise known as Bloodbloom, is our next plant. This plant is actually even smaller than the Australian pitcher plant, but significantly more dangerous to full-grown witches and wizards. This plant is categorized as a Class B: Physically Aggressive plant and despite its size -- or lack thereof -- can pack a nasty punch. 

This relative of liverworts clings to trees, rocks, and other areas where humans and creatures -- usually mammals -- frequent. They do not lure their prey and instead rely on convenient proximity, choosing breeding grounds, mid-level height on tree trunks, and other high-traffic areas to grow. Other than its strategic location, Bloodbloom also has tiny, almost microscopic “teeth” or thorns laced throughout. When prey is near, these thorns magically swell roughly 100 times their usual size. This, paired with the fact that it also coats these thorns with a chemical similar to the one that covers Gremathea, enables the plant to tear off chunks of the unwary animal. While this is rarely lethal for animals larger than rodents, if these thorns happen to nick the wrong area, the wounds can be extremely problematic and even life-threatening for humans.

The blood that naturally falls from the wounds gives the plant its characteristic hue and name. However, there is no need to fear diseases or contamination when using this plant in potions or preparations. The plant itself absorbs nutrients by soaking up the blood, and unless the plant has recently fed, there is no actual blood left -- contrary to what the name might suggest.

Now, just where can you find Bloodblooms, and how should one care for them? Firstly, the plant is predominantly found in boggy areas -- though some leeway should be given to areas that fit the earlier description of “high traffic” -- and prefers temperate zones, originally native to Northern Europe. However, Bloodblooms have since spread to many other temperate areas, even as far as North America and the more hospitable regions of Northern Asia. There’s a slight correlation between red cap lairs and patches of Bloodbloom. They require very frequent watering, and soil should ideally be moist at all times, if not in standing water. It is worth nothing that blood is actually preferable to water if an ethical source is available and will help the plant survive with less water. Other than this, the plant requires full shade, and pH has a negligible impact (as Bloodblooms rely almost completely on flesh and blood for its nutrients, not the soil).

Finally, we’ll take a look at Bloodbloom’s uses. This red plant enjoys use in quite unconventional potions, as you might guess, including a brew to make fake, animated vomit that creeps toward its intended prank victims. It’s unclear exactly how Bloodbloom actually affects this behavior, as the details of the recipe are closely guarded, but it has been confirmed to be one of the primary ingredients. More ordinarily, Bloodblooms are used in Invigoration Elixirs and potions that generally increase vitality. There is no particular portion of the plant that needs to be collected to do this. Simply sever or detach any section and store in a vial with a Repelling Charm. Also, it should hopefully go without saying, but please be careful when collecting! Obviously, do not collect this plant with your bare hands in order to avoid unhappy accidents. Just as importantly, be sure to harvest via magic from a distance, as the compound the plant secretes will just as readily stick to dragonhide gloves (unless they too have a robust Repelling Charm applied), which are not cheap to replace!

Carniferns

These scavengers of the forest floor -- also known as Osmunda bestia -- are frequently found alongside other carnivorous plants, particularly in carniferous forests (a concept we will touch on in the next lesson). However, they are able to grow on their own as well. These ferns prefer full or partial shade, and much like Bloodblooms don’t need much water, especially if they are provided with blood on a regular basis. As for pH requirements, Carniferns do best in highly acidic conditions, with pH values as low as 4.0, which, as you can imagine, means they don’t have much competition.

These vivid green plants typically grow up to one foot tall and can be found at the bottom of already carnivorous trees (or other plants) and, essentially, snack on their leftovers. While some consider many flesh-eating trees sentient -- and they may well be -- they certainly do not have good table manners. Therefore, the area around carnivorous plants is often littered with rotting pieces of flesh, puddles of blood, or even bones (as some plants cannot process these calcium-rich parts). This is where the Carnifern comes in. It simply throws out root systems to suck up the remains. Their root systems are quite talented, seeking blood spills, pieces of meat, and even bones in times of hardship. The roots attach to the desired item and break down the nutrients before receding back into the ground. Because of their feeding habits and preferred prey, they are not classified as physically aggressive. The Carnifern is not a very complex plant and can go months between meaty meals without suffering adverse effects.

In potions, juice extracted from Carnifern leaves are used to thin especially gloppy or congealed potions without causing any other unwanted side-effects and without diluting the potency, as is occasionally the case with adding too much water. The roots, on the other hand, should not be used for this purpose, as they have animating properties and are best used as secondary ingredients in potions that promote movement or energy.

Man-eating Marigolds

While this next plant may seem a little far-fetched, its name does have some basis in fact. Growing mostly in the forests of South America, Targetes horribilis is actually a climbing plant that winds around the trees and other sturdy plants that live there. These plants require large amounts of moisture, preferring warm and wet tropical climates, but do well in any amount of sun other than full sun. They prefer a mild pH of 5.5 to 7.5 (if in the ground at all).

This magical plant has a marvelous ability, somewhat similar to snakes, to extend its petals back like a double-hinged jaw. This means it is able to create an opening to consume something multiple times its own size. In the case of this species -- there are actually three separate species that could be described as a “man-eating marigold” -- a moderately sized Targetes horribilis can easily eat a Crup, wandering Kneazle, or any other wildlife. The larger specimens -- which have been recorded to grow up to three feet -- are capable of eating small children or very short herbologists! They can be identified by the small, yellow (or occasionally orange) petals clustered in the center of large pods on a green stem. When they sense vibrations through their root system (which indicates prey is nearby), the pod opens fully to reveal a gaping hole in the center, surrounded by the petals, which then encompasses their meal before closing again to digest it. This process is not instantaneous, fortunately, and as long as you are able to spot the plant before it fully opens, you will have no trouble escaping. Just be sure to keep your head on a swivel or, better yet, have a buddy with you! 

The delicate petals of Man-eating Marigolds are prized for their use as a topical cream to alleviate (though not cure) Spattergroit and also serve as an ingredient in insect-repelling potions and Smithwick’s Scent Sweller. To harvest, it is usually best to allow them to open partially, then stun them with a well-aimed Stunning Spell, and then quickly harvest the petals. The leaves, stems, and roots of this plant can also be used for the same purpose, but this is not typically done, as these parts are less potent.

Tiger Lilies

Lastly, we have the lovely, though often hungry, tiger lily. Not to be confused with its mundane counterpart, Lilium lancifolium, the carnivorous plant Lilium fremitus is of a similar size and shape (two and a half to six feet tall), though both hail from Asia. The magical plant can be visibly distinguished by its stripes rather than the typical spots. Of course, it can also be distinguished by its preference for small rodents rather than photosynthesis. They can flourish anywhere, though you will likely notice them more often in shady areas, as there is usually less competition there. They prefer temperate areas, should not be overwatered (only when the soil is dry to the touch), and prefer a moderate pH between 6.0 and 7.5. Interestingly, to reproduce, they do not actually produce seeds, but instead, something called “bulbils,” which grow along the stem. However, they are planted in the same fashion that seeds are. 

These orange and black plants are considered not only quite beautiful, but also a boon for magical families hoping to keep pests away, as they are not picky about their prey. In addition to small rodents, their prey includes unwary pixies, juvenile gnomes, and pesty insects, all of which are easily gobbled up by the bestriped beauties. This makes them excellent ornamental pest control. They are completely safe to approach, and their petals have mild sedative properties. Their vivid green leaves, on the other hand, have no known potioneering uses. Because they pose no threat to humans, these are not labeled as physically aggressive plants.

Other Anklebiters

Now, even with all these fancy new plants, it wouldn’t do to forget some old favorites that can also be classified as carnivorous! We have covered more than you think over the last five years. Firstly, we have the Chinese Chomping Cabbage, which, as was mentioned earlier in the lesson, is a very new addition to this category. Additionally, we have Devil’s Snare, as over time, they use the nutrients from their strangled prey’s body to nourish their growth. There are also such interesting specimens as Venomous Tentacula and Venus flytraps. Of course, there are more than just these -- including a very interesting sub-order of carnivorous magical fungi -- but a lesson can only last so long! Ah, but never fear, we will cover more macabre man-eaters in the next lesson, I promise!

Closing

Say goodbye to our adorable little finger biters, class! For now, we have to bid Greenhouse Seven adieu. Don’t fret though, we’ll be back at the same time next week to investigate more of these hungry little beauties. Though, in truth, the plants will not be quite so small next lesson. In any case, before you leave, you have a practical assignment to complete from which you should emerge from with all of your fingers intact -- if you have been paying attention, at least! If not, well… thank Merlin for dragonhide gloves and Madam Pomfrey’s quick instincts! In addition to your practical, there are a number of homework assignments for you to complete, some of them quite simple. You may wish to work on your usual assignment, your optional O.W.L. review, or an identification assignment to sort the different types of plants housed in Greenhouse Seven while you are waiting for your turn with the plants for the practical!

Original lesson by Professor Venita Wessex

Image credits here, here, here, here, here, and here

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