HERB-401 Lessons

Year Four, Lesson Three
Professions and Plants

Introduction
Welcome back, students, to another exciting lesson on potential plant-based professions!  Today, we will begin delving into the career of potion making, and this lesson will be the first of two. Because there is so much overlap between herbology and potions, I have separated out the topics. Today we will be discussing some theoretical considerations for plants and potion making with one plant as an example to demonstrate these concepts, while next week we will be taking a look at some must-have herbs for any potioneer, whether master or novice. 

A Look Back
While the topic was covered under the heading of apothecaries, the storage considerations we talked about last week are still very important to potions masters and mistresses as well, which is why they were covered first. You have undoubtedly come to find that many magical fields are highly interrelated, and potion making, herbology, and apothecaries are no exception. Obviously a potioneer does not need to store plants in quantities quite so large, or to worry about losing profits, and they can label in less formal ways, but it is truly a pain to get partway through a brew only to find out that your powdered thyme is past its expiration! 

While we are taking a trip through the past, it is also useful to briefly mention potions and W.H.I.P.S. categories. We discussed both in Year One, and not only is it generally a good idea to refresh your memory, but these two topics are very applicable, and you should now have a new perspective on them. If you recall, back in your first year, we discussed different types of cauldrons and their suitability for use with various kinds of plants -- specifically those with W.H.I.P.S. categories of E (burning) or F (reactive). However, you had not yet learned of the W.H.I.P.S. categories at that point, let alone worked with any of the plants that fall into them, so it may have seemed a bit abstract. 

Pewter and brass cauldrons, if you remember, do not fare well against Class E and Class F plants, such as Bubotubers, Gunpowder Gloriosas, or any fire plants. After repeated use, these cauldrons will begin to wear down, and one day you could find your potion spilling onto your shoes through a very thin bottom. Not an ideal situation, I assure you. Copper is a little better and will hold up to some, though not all, Class E and F plants. It is particularly susceptible to fire plants, for example, and potions involving these ingredients can warp your cauldron over time or even taint your potion, as some of the metal may mix with your brew. Still, it is a better alternative than the first two. If you are a serious potioneer, and many of your recipes involve these difficult plants, your best bet is either a silver or gold cauldron. Gold is slightly better, but the difference is so slight that many potions masters do not bother. As an added bonus, silver cauldrons also work well with nocturnal plants! However, since we have already covered this information, we need not spend more time on it now. If you’d like to refresh your memory, you are more than welcome to revise your notes.

Contamination Regulations
Now, let’s take a look at some new information. Last year, you heard me talk about various Ministry regulations surrounding the distribution of plants. Any Ministry-licensed apothecary, potions shop, or herbologist is required to produce plants of a particular standard. These standards include that a) the degree of toxicity must be within acceptable ranges, b) there must be no trace of inconsumables, and c) additional matter other than what is supposed to be included (also called a contaminant) in any plant product or preparation must be within regulated ranges.

This topic can apply to last week's lesson as well. However, there was already so much to say and we simply ran out of time. Additionally, as potions masters and mistresses mix multiple ingredients and cause magical reactions between those substances, the issues of contamination, toxicity, and potential reactions are much more pronounced. Among apothecaries, as long as your source or provider is within Ministry regulations, there is little else to worry about. With potions, however, there exists the chance that herbs within acceptable ranges may react and combine to create something dangerous.

The first condition regarding toxicity is likely the one that will make the most sense to you. We already know that all plants are toxic in the right dose (though some plants are toxic in any dose), and this is something to be mindful of. While the actual legislature is quite dry and wordy, in essence, a plant going into a potion that is going to be consumed or applied externally may only make up to a certain percentage of the potion, as dictated by its Class C rating. If a plant is safe enough to not even register on the W.H.I.P.S. toxicity scale (as most plants are), then any amount can be used in a potion. However, if it is a part of the W.H.I.P.S. Class C rating system, there are strict guidelines, as you can see from the chart displayed on the board. As an example, if moonflower -- a Class C-Level 3 plant -- is used in a potion, only one to nine percent of the resulting preparation can legally be made of moonflower. This means that the rest of the preparation must consist of other non-toxic substances. Should the percentage of moonflower go higher than these numbers, the potion may still be produced, but must then be labeled and sold as a poison and is subject to a new host of regulations! 

With toxicity out of the way, let’s address contaminants, or “foreign matter.” The term is slightly confusing, as it does not always imply contamination in the typical sense, but instead refers to anything that is not supposed to be in the potion. Therefore, a contaminant could be something as innocuous as a slight dusting of powdered valerian that was stuck to your mortar and pestle from your last potion, something as sinister as aconite in a simple Earache Elixir, or something as unwelcome as mercury in a Pepperup Potion. Even the simplest of additives can cause unwanted reactions or side effects, particularly when magic is involved, and therefore the Ministry of Herbology in the Department of Health and Safety is quite firm when it comes to regulating these additions. There are many specific regulations regarding particular circumstances, but one of the best rules of thumb is that the overall weight of the contaminant cannot be greater than 1/500th of the preparation in cases of Group A substances (products that do not pose substantial health risks, like valerian) and cannot be greater than 1/1000th in cases of Group B substances (products that do potentially pose health risks, like mercury). Additionally, there are some substances -- which fall into Group C -- that are simply not permitted to be in potions or preparations in any amount, as they are deemed inconsumable, like human flesh. However, I must stress that if the potion is meant to have these ingredients as per the recipe, the guidelines for these substances do not apply.

Naturally, there are many more regulations surrounding the combined magical reactivity, the acceptable amount and severity of side effects, and more. However, we don’t have all day, and some of these topics will be touched upon during your Potions classes. With all these rules and stipulations, potioneers take great pain in selecting their plants, occasionally even requiring their provider to list what phase of the moon or position of the planets an herb was planted or harvested under. In fact, these regulations are one of the driving factors behind potioneers choosing to grow their own stores of plants, though there are other considerations at play as well.

Consistency
Another concern for potioneers is potency and the consistency of effects. Because of the many variables that go into the process of growing plants and using them in potions (particularly for those who wish to sell the product), quality control can be a bit of a headache. After all, you wouldn’t buy an Enhanced Gillyweed Draught that usually lasts five hours, but occasionally only lasts three. Similarly, you don’t want a Pepperup Potion that only half cures your cold on occasion or may take anywhere between ten minutes to ten hours to take effect.

That’s not to say that a potion and its ingredients aren’t quality, but that even just an ounce more of an ingredient than intended -- or roots that are slightly more potent than usual -- can cause drastic differences in the batch. Therefore, many potioneers prefer to buy their ingredients specifically from the same apothecary or herbologist every time, as well-established businesses will have the method down pat, with very little deviation. This is another reason that some potioneers prefer to grow their own plants -- or at least a few they frequently use -- in an effort to take all unknown variables out of the equation. This way, they know the exact conditions under which the plants were grown and therefore know how to compensate for any lack of or increase in potency.

The Effects of Magic on Plants to Be Used in Potions
Finally, our last theory topic of the day before we get our hands dirty. Let’s talk about the fact that magic is not only difficult and exhausting for humans, as you have learned in Defense Against the Dark Arts, but that the same is also true for plants. Generally speaking, using too much magic on or around plants can cause magical exhaustion, particularly in the case of non-magical plants. The plant expends too much energy to compensate for the extra stimulation. To save them from this, give extra (double or triple) care for the next few weeks after they’ve been subjected to magic, or up to a month. If excessive needs continue for more than a month, inform me immediately (or, in the future, contact the Department of Health and Safety), as you may be spawning a magically-created hybrid, which can result in strange side effects. This possibility is most often a problem in potion making. The use of a never-before tested hybrid in the place of a typical plant is very dangerous and leads to unpredictable results -- not to mention it also has not been approved or certified by the Ministry. Even if you do not create a magically spawned hybrid, plants whose growth has been accelerated with magic will occasionally result in lower potencies, depending on the plant, its reactivity with magic, the spells used, and the frequency or power of said spells.

A seemingly contradictory option also exists, particularly for magical plants. In some cases, casting spells onto magical plants causes them to “overload,” as Mr. Levintree discussed at the end of Year Two. This glut of magic that develops within the plant can be dangerous and make it overactive. Over time, this may end up in one of two ways. First, a magically created hybrid can result; this is something that is often done on purpose. Secondly, an entirely new plant could develop.

The second option is not as beneficial, however. This could result in a magically dependent plant or a plant that needs a barrage of spells, potions, magical fertilizer, and more to survive. It is highly inadvisable to use plants that exhibit signs of magical dependency in potions or preparations. These plants are highly reactive and unpredictable, with no two cases exactly alike. Side effects could be amplified significantly, as the plant will latch onto the other ingredients’ properties, or entirely new side effects or properties may be created. While great for experimentation and discovery, it is not so good for consistency and rather horrific for an established business.

Should you find yourself with a dependent plant, do not fear! To combat this, while it might seem counterintuitive, give less care. Provide less light than normal, water less often, and do not provide fertilizer. The one thing you should not change up is the soil pH. Not only is it too jarring on the plant and likely to kill it, it is also much more difficult to change back and forth repeatedly. As you might have guessed, any plants that have experienced a magical “glut” are almost always over potent when compared to normal specimens.

Generally speaking, however, a little magic use around your plant will not hurt it, and a Darkening Charm here or there will not produce odd effects if the plant is used in potions later on. It is almost constant spellcasting or remarkably powerful spells that cause adverse effects, though there are some plants that are more susceptible to magic, and therefore to these issues. There are also quite a few potion purists who insist on no magic being used around their plants for the most predictable and pure results.

Plumb Crazy
Now that we have gone over the base theory, let’s look at something a little less abstract. As you can see, I’ve brought in some Dirigible Plums (Prunus tristica) for us to use today. They are easily identified by their orange color and similarities to a radish, if the floating doesn’t give them away first, that is. To go a bit more into detail, the long, thin tether by which the plums are held to the tree is occasionally lighter in color than the rest of the plant, and we will get into why in just a moment. The plant fruits very early on in life, skipping the flowering stage entirely. Originally native to East Asia, it has spread throughout Europe and the rest of Asia (though has not caught on much in North or South America for various reasons). 

You will see fruits starting to appear around late December to early January, and the plant will continue to produce fruit until June or July. Technically, once the plums have turned orange and reached their adult size, they are ready to be harvested and can continue to be harvested at periodic intervals throughout the growing season. However, I did say I would explain the reason that some Dirigible Plums’ tethers are lighter (some even pure white) while others are a deep orange like the rest of the plant. The Dirigible Plum is unique in that it has visible indicators that help guide herbologists and potioneers with regards to its potency. It is the least potent when the tether is white, or very pale, and most potent when there is no difference in color between the tether and the fruit¹. While determining potency by shades of color certainly leaves much room for interpretation, it is a much easier guideline to follow than simply basing the potency of the crop off of how much fertilizer or sun the plant received and your gut instinct.

To encourage the plant to reach its full potency, not only should you make sure it is growing under ideal conditions -- full or at least partial shade, a soil of 5.0 to 6.5 pH, and daily watering -- but you can also take additional steps. One of the most tried and true methods of boosting the plant’s potency is fertilizing with mooncalf dung. Dragon dung was also used up until an aspiring herbologist here at Hogwarts reported groundbreaking findings that mooncalf dung, due its more gentle nature, was just as efficient as dragon dung and did not increase the reactivity as much. Another way to increase a Dirigible Plum’s potency is through the use of magic. The Plant Growth Charm seems to work fantastically well, not only increasing the plant’s yield, but also making each plant more potent. It is suggested that any sort of spell cast on or around these plants will improve the potency as well, however, as we mentioned just a moment ago, there are consequences for overloading a plant with too much magic. Finally, the last way to cause your plums to become more potent is simply to be patient. After a few months of growth, the tethers will naturally darken slightly, even without additional measures.

While you may think that the darker the tether, the more profitable and desirable the Dirigible Plum is, this is not always so. Though a darker tether means the plant’s properties are stronger, it also means that the plant is more reactive. Consequently, their use in potions with other reactive plants (or even plants with specific effects or side effects) can be slightly hazardous. Therefore, in the highly volatile Potion of Perception, only the least potent Dirigible Plums are used in order to minimize the plant’s propensity for strange side effects. Conversely, in the Tooth-Tidying Tonic, potioneers typically prefer only the most potent plums. Even this single plant on its own gives us an idea of just how important consistency is to potion making. While the plant has some other uses -- notably in delicious pies that my mother used to make -- its main applications are as an inspirational or mental aid as well as to promote dental hygiene. 

Closing
I hope that all wasn’t too confusing or abstract for you! I assure you, if potioneering is your passion, once you start down that path, all of these practices and policies will quickly become second nature. After all, the only way to truly get good at something is to practice. In the meantime, if you have any questions, please don’t hesitate to contact me after class. Next week, we will be returning to simple and grounded topics -- plants -- though we will still be looking at them through the lens of potioneering professions. Until next time, students!

Footnote:

1. If colorblind, one can use the Maturation Charm learned in Second Year to great effect.

Original lesson written by Professor Venita Wessex
Additional portions written by  Professor Lily Tudor and Professor Liv Rowan
Image credits here, here, and here